![]() ![]() Q: I have been playing around with your different patinas and I get a very nice effect with the copper but have had no effect with an other patinas. If you have any other questions, please let me know. It’s very easy to apply & buff off by hand and is very affordable. It’s a micro-crystalline wax that seals the substrate and protects from UV light, smudges, fingerprints and the incidental ‘light abrasion’ or scuffing. 2) Depending on the intended use of the finished product, there are several approved methods of top-coating: 1: A Ceramic Clear (like Cerakote®, 2: A Catalyzed (2-part) Automotive Clear, or 3: (which is my personal favorite for most items, “Renaissance Wax”. True or False?Ģ) If the product is used for design on a firearm, what would you use to seal it, for long-term protection?ġ second Cobb ~ 1) The product does not prevent ferrous metals from rusting or oxidizing, but on MOST Stainless Steel alloys, that’s a moot issue, where the choice to seal or not to seal is optional. I Have Two Questions For You.ġ) I’m guessing the product does not protect steel from rusting. And, there are well over 1,000 Different Shades of White.īill, I’m Intrigued. And, of course White & Black come into play, although Black is not a Color. All the Colors in the World Originate from the 3 Primary Colors, Which Are RED, YELLOW & BLUE. Any of the Dyes can also be Shaded (Darkened), by adding a few drops of JET BLACK DYE. For example, if you wanted a pink color, you would add a few drops of White Dye to the Red Dye, which would change the Red to Pink. ![]() White Dye is typically used to Tint (Lighten) another dye color. The only dye that’s not truly translucent is the White Dye, as it contains pigments, namely Titanium Dioxide. You can think of the dyes as translucent colors on polished steel, so you’re not hiding the beauty of the steel. If you’ll take a look at the photos underneath any of the Dye Sizes or Dye Kits, you’ll see what I mean. Thanks, Bradley R.Īs to your question re: Dyes…There are some colors that can not be produced on steel with patinas, such as Brilliant Reds, Purples, Yellows, Greens, so a lot of artisans will embellish their patinated steel with dyes after the patinas have been applied. Also how well are the dyes vs just the patinas for color? I hate to keep on with the questions but also the clear coat, how is your clear vs a rattle can clear? I am sure yours is much better but hard to justify the expense being a small shop. I look forward to your feedback and getting my products ordered. I know I would like the COPPER F/X and RUST F/X. I know that may be hard to gauge because of size, design and which ones we use and all. I was wondering if you could give me some pointers on which products to try and about how many items they would cover. It works ok but after seeing your stuff it makes them seem inadequate haha. We have been painting or rusting our cutouts with vinegar and peroxide/salt mix. I own a fabrication weld shop in Alabama and we started doing CNC art back in January and have had good luck with our designs but it is time to up our game. I found your products being a plasma spider member.
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